Hand stitching is a traditional technique highly valued in leathercraft, saddlery, and DIY leather projects. To achieve an even, strong, and attractive stitch, it all starts with choosing the right needle and mastering the threading technique.
1. Which needle should you choose for hand sewing leather?
Since leather is a dense and tough material, not all needles are suitable. You need a special leather needle designed to pass through pre-made holes without damaging the material.
Key features of a good leather needle:
Rounded tip: unlike textile sewing, the needle must not pierce the leather. The holes are made using a pricking iron and an awl.Stiff needle: it must withstand tension without bending.
Large eye: to accommodate waxed thread, which is often thicker than standard sewing thread.
Recommended model:
Use saddler's needles harness, Hand stitching leather, especially the saddle stitch, is always done with two needles.
2. What needle size for which thread?
The diameter depends on the thread used and the type of project. Depending on your creation, you'll also adjust the pricking iron (spacing between teeth).
As a general rule, the larger the spacing, the thicker the thread needs to be—and therefore the needle as well.
Reference table: thread – needle – spacing – type of project:
Needle John James:
| Needle size | Diameter | Compatible thread | Pricking spacing | Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 002 | 1.02 mm | 0.36 to 0.51 mm | 2.5 to 3.5 mm | Small leather goods and accessories |
| 004 | 0.86 mm | 0.36 to 0.63 mm | 3.0 to 4.0 mm | Leather goods |
| 1/0 | 1.09 mm | 0.36 to 0.78 mm | 3.0 to 4.0 mm | Leather goods |
| 2/0 | 1.42 mm | 0.63 to 0.78 mm | 3.5 to 4.5 mm | Large leather items (harness, luggage) |
| 3/0 | 1.63 mm | 0.63 to 1.00 mm | 4.0 to 6.0 mm | Large leather items (harness, luggage) |
Needle Oka factory:
| Needle size | Diameter | Compatible thread | Pricking spacing | Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 0.77 mm | 0.36 to 0.51 mm | 2.5 to 3.5 mm | Small leather goods |
| S | 1.05 mm | 0.36 to 0.78 mm | 3.0 to 4.0 mm | Fine leather goods |
| M | 1.05 mm | 0.36 to 0.78 mm | 3.0 to 4.0 mm | Leather goods |
| L | 1.35 mm | 0.63 to 0.85 mm | 4.0 to 6.0 mm | Sturdy pieces |
3. How to thread the needle for sewing leather?
A well-threaded needle ensures smooth stitching, without the thread slipping or coming loose. Here's the method used in professional leathercraft:
Steps to thread the needle correctly:
1. Cut a length of thread equal to 4 to 5 times the length of the seam.2. Wax the thread using beeswax to strengthen it.
3. Pierce the needle diagonally through the thread, about a needle-length from the end.
4. Pass the needle through the thread to form a loop around the eye.
5. Gently pull so the loop tightens and holds the needle in place.
Repeat the process with a second needle on the other end of the thread to sew using the saddle stitch.
Why is this method essential?
It prevents the needle from unthreading during stitching, even under high tension. It also avoids unwanted knots that could block the passage through the stitch holes.