A leather collar stud, also known as a cartridge stud, is one of the simplest and most robust fastening systems in leathercraft. It allows you to create a quick and effective closure for cases, bracelets, coin purses and many other leather creations. The good news? Installation requires no stitching, sewing machine or striking tool — just the right punches and a few minutes. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to install a collar stud cleanly and correctly the first time.
How does a leather collar stud work?
A collar stud consists of two parts that screw together: a cap (the visible mushroom-shaped part) and a screw base. The base passes through the leather from underneath, and the cap is screwed onto it from above, securing the leather between the two parts. To close it, slide a slotted piece of leather around the collar (the narrow section beneath the cap): the slot locks behind the cap. This simple principle provides a strong and removable closure.
Materials and tools needed
Before you begin, gather your materials:
- A leather collar stud (chosen according to the thickness of your leather: 6 mm size for leather from 0.5 to 3 mm thick, 8 mm size for leather from 2 to 5 mm thick)
- A round leather punch for the hole for the screw section
- A special collar stud punch for creating the hole with the slot (on the closing piece) OR a
- A mallet and a striking surface (cutting mat or striking board)
- A screwdriver to tighten the screw
All these tools are available in our Leather Punches section and our range of leather tools.
Step 1: Mark the position of the stud
Start by precisely marking where you want to install your collar stud. Mark the center of the hole using a silver marking pencil or an awl. Take the time to position your mark correctly: on a tab or flap, the stud should be centered and far enough from the edge to avoid weakening the leather.
Tip: If your project has two parts (a tab with the stud and a slotted piece that closes around it), mark the stud position first, install it, then transfer the slot position by overlapping the two pieces. This ensures that the closure lines up perfectly.
Step 2: Punch the hole for the screw base
At the marked position, punch the leather using the round leather punch with the diameter corresponding to the screw of your stud. Hold the punch perfectly perpendicular to the leather on your striking surface and strike it firmly with the mallet. The hole should be clean and precise, without any rough edges, so that the screw passes through easily.
Step 3: Assemble the collar stud
Insert the screw base through the underside of the leather (flesh side), so that the screw protrudes through the top (grain side). Then place the cap on top and screw it onto the base clockwise. Tighten firmly by hand, then finish tightening with a flat-head screwdriver or a coin inserted into the slot of the screw, without applying excessive force. The leather should be held securely between the cap and the base, without any play.
Tip: For a permanent, non-removable attachment, you can apply a drop of strong adhesive (threadlocker or cyanoacrylate glue) to the thread before tightening. The stud will then no longer be able to unscrew during use.
Step 4: Creating the closing slot
On the piece of leather that will close around the stud (the flap or opposite tab), you need to create a round hole extended by a slot: the round section allows the stud cap to pass through, while the slot locks around the collar. There are three ways to make it, depending on the tools you have available.
Technique 1: Using a special collar stud punch
This is the simplest and cleanest method. The special collar stud punch creates the round hole and slot in a single strike. Position it over the marked area, perpendicular to the leather and on your striking surface, then strike it with the mallet. The result is clean and consistent every time.
Technique 2: Round punch + lacing punch
If you don't have the dedicated punch, first make the round hole using a round leather punch of the correct diameter, then create the slot using a lacing punch struck in line with the hole. The punch creates a clean and even slot.
Technique 3: Round punch + precision knife
The simplest method when you have only a few tools. Punch the round hole first, then extend it into a slot by carefully cutting the leather with a precision knife, using a metal ruler to keep the cut straight. Work in small passes for a clean result.
Tip: Whichever technique you use, test it on a scrap piece of leather before working on your final piece, and adjust the slot length to the size of the stud cap: if it is too short, the cap will not pass through; if it is too long, the closure will not hold securely.
Step 5: Test the closure
Your collar stud is now installed! To close it, position the round part of the slot over the stud cap, push it through, then slide the leather so that the slot sits around the collar beneath the cap. The closure should hold securely without requiring excessive force, but it should not be loose. If it is too tight or too loose, adjust the position of the slot on a new test piece.
Congratulations!
Your collar stud is installed and ready to use. You now know how to install one of the most practical fastening systems in leathercraft, which you can use for a wide variety of projects: eyeglass cases, coin purses, bracelets, small pouches and more. With a little practice, installation will only take a few minutes.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Watch this technique on our YouTube channel to see every step in detail.
Frequently asked questions about installing a leather collar stud
What size collar stud should you choose?
The size depends on the total thickness of your leather. The 6 mm size is suitable for leather from 0.5 to 3 mm thick, while the 8 mm size is suitable for leather from 2 to 5 mm thick. Choosing the correct size is important: a screw that is too short will not pass through the leather, while one that is too long will leave play between the cap and the base.
Do you need a special tool to install a collar stud?
You need two punches: a round leather punch for the screw hole and a special collar stud punch to create the hole and slot on the closing piece. A mallet and striking surface are also required for punching. No stitching or sewing machine is needed, making this fastening system very accessible.
How can you prevent a collar stud from unscrewing?
If you notice that your stud tends to loosen during use, apply a drop of strong adhesive (threadlocker or cyanoacrylate glue) to the screw thread before tightening it. The attachment will then become permanent and the stud will no longer be able to unscrew. Please note, however, that this operation is irreversible.
What types of projects can you use a collar stud for?
A collar stud is ideal for closing eyeglass cases, coin purses, bracelets, small pouches and many other leather accessories. It can also be used to create tabs and straps. Its simple installation and strength make it a versatile fastening system appreciated by both beginners and experienced leatherworkers.
Does a collar stud damage the leather?
No, provided that you punch a clean hole and position the stud correctly, far enough from the edge. The leather is simply held between the cap and the base without being subjected to excessive stress. Just make sure to choose the correct stud size for your leather thickness to avoid any play or excessive tension.